Monday 29 August 2011
Thursday 25 August 2011
How to Maintain a Car Battery
Car batteries? As long as the car starts, the lights turn on, and the radio plays, it’s easy to forget about them and the fact that they need regular attention just like every other operating part of your car. Don’t forget. Such attention is particularly important during the winter months. The colder the climate, the greater the drain on the battery. Here is a thorough guide on how to maintain a car battery.Car batteries today do tend to be trouble free if they receive reasonable care and maintenance. There are four general reasons for their failure: failure to add water when needed, prolonged undercharging or overcharging, inadequate capacity, especially if electrical accessories have been added to the car’s original equipment, and lack of proper engine and battery maintenance.
Following are some tips on how to maintain your car battery. If you follow them, the chances are that you will get satisfactory performance throughout its service life. A warning, however: don’t attempt to service it yourself unless you are thoroughly familiar with the precautions that must be taken.
Car battery gases are explosive and they may explode with great violence. A torch, match, lighted cigarette or sparks from metal tools accidently contacting both terminal posts could cause ignition of the gases. If you’re not in the know, let a service station man take care of the upkeep. Check, however, to see that such upkeep is being done.
Battery Water
Water is the life of your battery. Check the level once a week in hot weather, at least once a month in cold weather. Add plain water if the liquid level as seen through the vent cap opening is below the built-in indicator. If the water level is too low, the high concentration of sulfuric acid on the exposed plates may permanently damage the battery. Do not fill above the level of the indicator. Overfilling may cause the electrolyte to bubble up and escape through the vent caps. If the water level is low frequently, have a qualified serviceman check the output of the alternator. It may be overcharging and “boiling” the water away.
The electrolyte? That’s the solution of sulfuric acid and water in which the plates and separators are immersed in. Acid, by the way, is highly corrosive. Avoid splashing it on skin or clothing. If you touch a case or terminal, do not touch your eyes before you wash your hands. In case of accidental acid contact with eyes or skin, flush immediately with a large quantity of water. If acid reaches your eyes, get medical attention at once.
Alternator Belt
If the alternator belt stretches and begins to slip, the alternator will not produce a normal amount of electrical current for recharging. Have the bell checked for tightness by a qualified serviceman at intervals recommended by the manufacturer, or whenever you take the car for a tuneup.
Cable Clamps
When the cable clamps corrode at the terminals, trouble is likely to follow. A corroded clamp means a poor connection and loss of power. If long neglected, corrosion can actually eat through a clamp and cause a complete power loss. Clean corrosion from cable clamps with a wire brush and water. After cleaning, coat the clamps with petroleum grease, silicone grease, or vaseline to prevent or slow corrosion. If the cable clamp is too badly damaged from corrosion, replace it. If you fail to keep cable clamps and other cable connections tight, you will experience a power loss or complete power failure. Have the serviceman periodically check and if necessary tighten the clamps, the “ground” connection, and the cable connections to alternator, starter, and power terminals.
Battery Case
Take proper care of the case as it is very important for your car battery maintenance. A film of moisture, grease and dirt on the case and around terminals can cause a slow leakage of electricity even while the car is idle. Remove loose dirt with a slow stream of water, being careful to prevent it from entering the vent holes. Use a stiff brush to remove corrosion. This is a must if you want to maintain your car battery.
A cloth dipped in a solution of baking soda (two ounces of soda to one quart of water) will help neutralize acid which may have accumulated on the case and connections. Clean the vent caps periodically. Each has a tiny hole in the center to permit accumulated gases to escape. Remove corrosion and rust from the tray and holddown clamps with a stiff brush and a solution of baking soda and water. Rinse with clean water, dry, and then coat with acid-proof paint. Do not paint the terminals! Avoid getting the baking soda solution into cells. Keep hold-down clamps firmly adjusted to prevent the battery from rocking in the tray. Rocking may cause severe damage to the cells and allow the electrolyte to splash out.
Power Loss
If you experience a power loss such as dim lights or a marked slowdown in starter operation, have your serviceman check the car battery to see if it is in good condition and fully charged. If the cells are about equally charged and if the water level is normal but the overall charge of the battery is low, have the serviceman look for the cause. It might be:
- A short in the electrical system causing an excessive drain.
- Trouble in the alternator causing a drop-off in the charging rate.
- A slipping alternator belt.
- Insufficient driving to keep the car battery adequately charged, in which case you may need to have it recharged occasionally.
- Lights or accessories operating too often when the engine is off and the alternator is not operating.
Engine Tune
Your car battery may be in perfect condition and all connections may be tight, yet its power may be gradually declining – particularly if you live in a cold climate. If your engine is hard to start because it is poorly tuned – bad spark plugs, burned distributor points, incorrect timing – or if it stalls frequently, you may be literally working your battery to death. If you use up more energy than the alternator can restore, your battery will slowly lose its charge. Have a complete tune-up in the spring and late fall; more often if the car is hard to start, tends to stall, or is subject to very extensive usage.
Engine Oil
If you live in a cold climate, it is important that you use the right “weight” oil in your car; that is, the oil with the proper viscosity for the temperature in your vicinity. Oil that is too viscous (heavy) acts like molasses or glue on a cold morning, making it hard to crank your engine. The result, again, may be an overworked car battery.
If it seems to labor on a cold morning, ask your service station or garage attendant if you are using an oil too heavy for the car and climate. With the best of care, winter is a time problems can appear and this is the time when proper battery maintenance is essential. For example, people who leave home for work before the sun has come up, sometimes forget to switch off lights when they park. If you leave high beam lights on with the engine turned off, the 18-amperes drain will reduce a fully charged 40 ampere-hour rated battery by 50 percent in approximately 40 minutes – that means a dead battery. How to maintain your car battery if this happens?
Before the development of automatic transmissions for automobiles, failure of a car battery meant asking a friendly neighbor or a passing motorist for a push. But with many of today’s cars, if the battery is dead the car cannot be started by towing or pushing with the engine in gear. Consequently, the “jumper cable” is now a common emergency accessory. With it, you can borrow power from a neighbor or passing motorist and start your car.
Unfortunately, many people do not understand how to use jumper cables or how dangerous they can be if improperly used. Here’s how they should be used. First, before you attempt to connect jumper cables, take the following precautions:
- In very cold weather, check the car battery to see if the electrolyte is frozen. Do not use jumper cables if it is frozen; it could damage it beyond repair.
- Check to see that both the booster and rundown battery have the same voltage – six-volt or 12-volt. If your car is a six-volt you can get a boost from a 12-volt car, but you must be sure to detach the cables as soon as the car motor turns over, otherwise you may overcharge your battery. Under no circumstances should you charge a car with 12-volt battery from one with 6-volt.
- Turn off all accessory switches and the ignition key.
- Place the gearshift or gear selector in the neutral or park position.
- Remove vent caps from both the booster and rundown battery.This will release accumulated gases.
Now, you are ready to connect the cables. On the rundown battery, find the terminal connected to the starter switch. Note if positive or negative. Then clip one end of jumper cable to like marked terminal of booster battery. Now, clip the other end of the same jumper cable to the terminal of the rundown battery. (Be sure the positive terminal marked POS, P, or of one is connected to the positive of the other and that the negative marked NEG, N – is connected to the negative of the other. Connection of a positive terminal to a negative terminal may result in alternator damage or possible explosion). Connect one end of the second jumper cable to the other terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be fastened securely to the bumper or engine block of the car with the rundown battery.
Engage the starter of your car. If it does not start immediately, it is well to start the engine of the other car to avoid excessive drain on the booster battery. Put the cell caps on the batteries of both cars after the one with the dead battery starts and the engine is running normally. Remove the ground connection cable from the bumper or engine block of the one car and then the other end from the booster battery. Then, remove the second cable, first detaching it from the recharged battery and then from the booster battery.
If you cannot start your car with the aid of jumper cables and a booster battery, think twice before you take emergency measures. If your car has a standard stick shift transmission you can push it or have it towed without danger of damage. If you have an automatic transmission, however, you cannot push your car to start it; and if you have it towed, be sure the tow truck has a crane. Your car’s drive wheels must be lifted entirely off the ground; otherwise your car may suffer serious damage. Your other alternatives, of course, are to replace the car battery or have it recharged.
Car batteries are usually taken for granted and people pay attention to them only after they notice issues with them. So, it is of utmost importance that you know how to maintain a car battery as its failure may mean the end of the road for you.
Source: http://www.howy.org/automotive/how-to-maintain-car-battery.html
How to maintain your new car
One of the reassuring qualities of contemporary cars is that they need much less-frequent service to keep them running well. Changing the spark plugs, breaker points, and condenser used to be a seasonal exercise, and body rust was accepted as a normal if unfortunate hazard of aging. Now many spark plugs can go 100,000 miles between changes. Electronic ignition has done away with the points and condenser. Chassis, suspensions, and even some transmissions are lubed for life. And factory rust-through warranties typically run six years or longer. What’s more, reliability has improved significantly. The result is that most late-model cars and trucks should be able to go 200,000 miles with regular upkeep. Here are a few simple, periodic checks and procedures you can do that will help you get there.
CR advises that digital tire-pressure gauges (which cost about $15 to $25) are probably the best bet overall because they will give an accurate reading or none at all. Many pencil-type gauges (typically $10 to $15) are good as well. Note that to check the pressure in a temporary spare tire, which is often 60 psi, you will need a gauge that goes higher than that—say from 0 up to 90 pounds.
Source: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/new-cars/news/2005/how-to-protect-your-investment-1205/overview/index.htm
Three key tasks
Check the engine oil
Do it regularly—monthly for a vehicle in good condition; more often if you notice an oil leak or find you need to add oil routinely. The car should be parked on level ground so you can get an accurate dipstick reading. Don’t overfill. And if you do have a leak, find and fix it soon.Check tire air pressure
Once a month and before any extended road trips, use an accurate tire-pressure gauge to check the inflation pressure in each tire, including the spare. Do this when the tires are cold (before the vehicle has been driven or after no more than a couple of miles of driving). Use the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle’s manufacturer, not the maximum pressure embossed on the tire’s sidewall. The recommended pressure is usually found on a placard on a front doorjamb, in the glove compartment, or in the owner’s manual. Also be sure to inspect tires for abnormal or uneven wear, cuts, and any sidewall bulges you can see.CR advises that digital tire-pressure gauges (which cost about $15 to $25) are probably the best bet overall because they will give an accurate reading or none at all. Many pencil-type gauges (typically $10 to $15) are good as well. Note that to check the pressure in a temporary spare tire, which is often 60 psi, you will need a gauge that goes higher than that—say from 0 up to 90 pounds.
Give it a wash
Try to wash the car every week, if you can. Wash the body and, if necessary, hose out the fender wells and undercarriage to remove dirt and road salt. It’s time to wax the finish when water beads become larger than a quarter.Other checks at each oil change
For normal driving, many automakers recommend changing the engine oil and filter every 7,500 miles or six months, whichever comes first. This is sufficient for the majority of motorists. For “severe” driving—with frequent, very cold starts and short trips, dusty conditions, or trailer towing–the change interval should be shortened to every 3,000 miles or three months. (Check your owner’s manual for the specific intervals recommended for your vehicle.) Special engines such as diesels and turbocharged engines may need more-frequent oil changes.Check the air filter
Remove the air-filter element and hold it up to a strong light. If you don’t see light, replace it. Regardless, follow the recommended service intervals.Check the constant-velocity-joint boots
On front-wheel-drive and some four-wheel-drive vehicles, examine these bellowslike rubber boots, also known as CV boots, on the drive axles. Immediately replace any that are cut, cracked, or leaking. If dirt contaminates the CV joint it can quickly lead to an expensive fix.Inspect the exhaust system
If you’re willing to make under-car inspections, check for rusted-through exhaust parts that need replacing. Also tighten loose clamps. Do this while the car is up on ramps. If a shop changes your oil, have them make these checks. Listen for changes in the exhaust sound while driving. It’s usually advisable to replace the entire exhaust system all at once rather than to repair sections at different times.Look at the brakes
For most people it makes sense to have a shop check and service the brakes. If you handle your own brake work, remove all wheels and examine the brake system. Replace excessively worn pads or linings, and have badly scored rotors or drums machined or replaced. The brakes should be checked at least twice per year; more often if you drive a lot of miles.Check the fluids
On many newer cars, the automatic transmission is sealed. On cars where it is not sealed, check the transmission dipstick with the engine warmed up and running (see the owner’s manual for details). Also check the power-steering-pump dipstick (it’s usually attached to the fluid-reservoir cap) and the level in the brake-fluid reservoir. If the brake-fluid level is low, top it up and have the system checked for leaks.Clean the radiator
Prevent overheating by removing debris with a soft brush and washing the outside of the radiator with a detergent solution.Check the battery
Check the battery’s terminals and cables to make sure they are securely attached, with no corrosion. If the battery has removable caps, check its fluid level every few months—especially in warmer climates.Regular maintenance every two to four years
Drain and flush the cooling system
Considering the hassle of collecting and safely disposing of old antifreeze, you may want to leave this to a shop.Change the automatic-transmission fluid
Many models require that you replace the fluid and filter every 36,000 miles—sooner if the normally pink fluid takes on a brownish tint. With some cars the fluid and, if applicable, the filter can go 100,000 miles or more. With other late models, the transmission fluid never needs to be changed. Check your owner’s manual for this information.Replace the drive belts and hoses
Do this every two to three years, even if they don’t show any wear. If a belt becomes noisy, have it adjusted.Change the timing belt
If your vehicle has a belt instead of a chain, stick to the manufacturer’s recommended replacement interval—usually every 60,000 to 80,000 miles. Check the owner’s manual or consult a dealer. Failure to change the timing belt can result in a very expensive engine repair if the belt should break.Source: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/new-cars/news/2005/how-to-protect-your-investment-1205/overview/index.htm
Tuesday 23 August 2011
EV Charging Stations In Los Angeles
Now what is EV Charging Stations? EV charging stations is nothing but a point that will Energies your Cars. High Volt Electric is partnered with Energize Your Car to install Electric Vehicle Charging Stations for the public, private and residential recharging infrastructure. As we know that Pure Electric Vehicles are the first vehicles in the history of fleet transportation that have a true return on investment due to not needing to purchase gas, oil, or heavy engine, transmission and coolant system maintenance ever again. Also, with unattended fueling, drivers will never need to go to the gas station or use cash, credit cards or expense accounts for fuel. Labor and time is saved by eliminating this costly process.
Electric Vehicle Charging Stations are being installed by High Volt Electric and Energize Your Car, accelerating the deployment of advanced electric vehicle transportation technologies. If you would like to learn more about installing charging stations. Basically there is Level I and Level II EV charging stations are currently available.
Currently High Volt Electric’s EV Charging Station Implementation Program is installing in the following areas:
- Municipal/Public locations
- Single Family Residences
- Multi-tenant, Condo and Apartment Buildings
- Retail, Entertainment and Recreational venues
- And More…..
Please note that Federal Tax credits are still available……..
High Volt Electric is deploying smart electric vehicle charging stations and infrastructure so that consumers, businesses and municipalities can Go Green one-vehicle-at-a-time. High Volt Electric is currently installing Smart EV Charging Stations across the country, both directly and through new Dealers we are recruiting daily. The electric vehicle charging stations are being located in public and private parking areas, municipalities, governments, city streets and Interstates, to provide the conveniently and soon-to-be-necessary EV Charging Stations so we can re-charge electric vehicles virtually everywhere. The simplicity and small footprint of our new electric vehicle charging stations means that anyone, anywhere can easily and quickly add a single EV Charging Stations at their residence, their work, or request that retail and other businesses they frequent, install one in their parking areas for Electric Vehicle consumers.
You can find our request form elsewhere on our web site to facilitate the electric vehicle charging station site requesting process. Every business we talk to sees an immediate and significant advantage to providing these EV Charging Stations as a new and innovative marketing tool that demonstrates that they are environmentally responsible, corporate citizens.
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